THE HOMESTEAD WORKSHOP

Parts

The hardware, bins and bits our gadgets are built around — with the measurement each default actually came from, so you can check yours before you buy.

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. It costs you nothing and it does not decide what ends up on this page — everything here is what I buy for my own shop.
Measure before you cut, not after. Every number below is the size the gadget's defaults were built from. If what you have in your hand is a different size, that is fine — type your number into the gadget and it will build to yours. The numbers are here so you know whether you need to.

Drawer slides — OrganizerFORGE, TrashFORGE, SpiceFORGE

The one part every pullout needs, in pairs, every time. All three gadgets are built around Blum TANDEM undermounts and their hook-bore pattern.

Blum TANDEM 563H undermount + locking devices

The default runner. 12 mm sides, 6 mm hook bores. All Blum numbers in the gadgets are settled off INST-TDM563H-563.05.15.

Blum TANDEM 569H heavy-duty undermount

The loaded-drawer option. Same bore pattern as the 563H, so nothing in the gadget changes if you switch.

OrganizerFORGE — the base pullout

Bays, cup shelf and knife block.

Stainless utensil cups, rim-hung

5" body, 5 1/4" rim, 6 7/8" deep. The rim is what carries the cup, so the rim measurement is the one that has to match — the body can vary.

Tins / cups on Amazon

Knife rods

For the knife block.

Buy several sets at once — these ship from China and the lead time is long enough to stall a job.

Knife rods on Amazon

TrashFORGE — the waste pullout

Sized to your cans and your opening.

35 quart waste container — one or two

35 quart is the size to search for, and as far as I can find it is the only size these come in — so this is hard to get wrong. It measures 14 3/8" × 10 1/2" at the rim, 17 7/8" tall, which is what the apertures are cut to. Measure the rim rather than the base if you are checking a can you already own — most of them taper. TrashFORGE builds around whatever you type, so a different can is a measurement, not a problem.

Waste bin on Amazon

SpiceFORGE — the spice pullout

Adjustable shelves, so the only bought part besides slides is the pin.

5 mm shelf pins

5 mm pin, 9 mm shank. Measure yours — shelf pins vary more than they have any right to, and the bore is drilled to whatever you enter.

DoorFORGE — the door bits

Three tools cut the entire free tier — square edge, square inset frame, flat panel. That is a Shaker door, start to finish. Everything below that is a profile you chose, and the gadget names the bit on the card before you commit to anything.

The three that cut the free tier

1 1/4" surfacing bit

Roughs the panel field. The default field clear, and the heaviest-working tool in the library.

1 1/4" surfacer on Amazon

The two Amana bits — one cart

Amana 46225-K Spektra 1/8" down-cut — the workhorse. Follows the surfacer to finish every pocket with sharp corners, and cuts kerf grooves and tight quirks.
Amana 46170-K 1/4" compression — perimeter cutout, clean edges top and bottom.

Add both to an Amazon cart

What the paid profiles add

Ball nose 1/2" — Ballnose edge and Ballnose Cove frame. Not linked yet; the set below stops at 3/8".

150° V-bit, 1 1/4" — the 150 Degree Raised Panel. This one is a form tool, not a V-bit the software builds for you: the shallow angle is what gives a raised panel its bevel, and VCarve will not construct it from an angle. It comes out of the tool database with the profile.

150° V-bit — the raised panel

The only bit on this list I can point you straight at.

150° V-bit on Amazon

Amana RC-1100 — the 90° chamfer bit

Cuts the Chamfer edge and both passes of the Two-Step chamfer frame.

It is sold as a 91° miter-fold blade, and that is deliberate. One degree is nothing in a V-carve — half a degree per side, about two thousandths across a 1/4" deep chamfer, which you will never find with a caliper. What you get for it is a bit that also folds a mitered corner properly, which a true 90° will not.

Amana RC-1100 on Amazon

60° V-groove — the bevel frame

For the 60° bevel frame. The angle is the part that has to match. DoorFORGE assumes a 1" cutting diameter, which is what sets how deep the bit can reach before the shank gets in the way — a smaller insert bit still cuts the same bevel, just with less depth in hand.

60° V-groove on Amazon

Amana RC-1045 — 45°, for joints

Cuts cope-and-stick rail/stile seams and mitered corner seams. Only needed if you cut joints. 13/16" dia × 7/8" CH × 1/2" shank.

Amana RC-1045 on Amazon

Carbide ball nose set — 1/16, 1/8, 3/16, 1/4, 3/8

Covers the 1/4" ball nose, so it cuts the 1/4" Ballnose edge and the 1/4" Ballnose Cove frame. It does not include a 1/2" — the full-size Ballnose edge and Ballnose Cove need that one bought separately.

Ball nose set on Amazon

The V-bits are still unlinked, and you likely need one or two rather than all of them. For these — end mills, ball noses, V-bits — the size is what matters, not the brand. DoorFORGE builds the tool itself from the diameter and angle, so any maker works if the geometry matches. The form tools below are the opposite.

Form tools — buy the exact part number

These carry their own shape and the profile matches them by name in your tool database. A near-equivalent from another maker, or a different size in the same family, will not resolve — the profile simply will not find its bit. Buy the number.

Amana 56126 — 3/16" point-cutting roundover

The 3/16" Roundover edge profile.

Amana 56126 on Amazon

Amana 56125 — 1/4" point-cutting roundover

The 1/4" Roundover edge profile.

Amana 56125 on Amazon

Amana 56127 — 3/8" Roundover edge.
Amana 49694 — 1/8" R plunge roundover.
Amana 56118 Plunging Ogee Style A, 9/64" R × 3/4" D × 1/2" CH × 1/2" shank — the Simple Ogee edge, the ogee frame, and the ogee raised panel. Three profiles off one bit.

Pick the profiles you actually want first — the card names the bit, so you can price the tooling before you commit to anything.